Continuing on from my last post… Now that your dog understands the basics of the wait behavior it’s time to try using it at a door that opens to the outdoors. If you have a fenced yard, use a door that accesses it for added safety.
Set your dog up for success. As you may recall from earlier blogs, I’ve mentioned that dogs do not generalize well. What this means is that while your dog may completely understand “wait” as it relates to the doorway you’ve been practicing at i.e. between the kitchen and the family room, he may not automatically understand that the same behavior applies when the “wait” cue is given at a doorway opening to the outside. As a result a little additional training may be needed.
Set up for success:
- Exercise — If your dog is young and full of energy, you’ll want to make sure he has been well exercised before you start this new step in his training. (The anticipation of having access to the outdoors can be very stimulating to many dogs.)
- Practice — Bring your dog to the inside doorway where they’ve been practicing up until now and get one or two successfully cued “waits” before you move to the outside doorway.
- Leash — Continue to practice with your dog on leash, just in case!
- Treats — Have some training treats strategically placed near the outside doorway for rewarding good behavior, but not so close that they are a distraction from the exercise.
Wait at an outside doorway (door opens into the room where you are standing)
Walk your dog up to the doorway on leash. Ask your dog to sit just to the side of the threshold. If the door opens from left to right your dog will sit just to the left of the doorway. Cue your dog to wait (and use your hand signal if you have one). Reach for the door handle. If your dog does not move give him some nice gentle praise and re-cue the wait. If he does move, reposition him and repeat.
After you’ve re-cued the wait, open the door about 2 inches; leave it open for about 3 seconds. If your dog successfully holds his sit, shut the door, release your dog from the wait, and go get and give him a treat. If your dog got up re-start the whole exercise.
Assuming your dog was successful, the next time you open the door you will open it about a foot.
Cue the sit/wait and open the door about a foot wide. If your dog starts to get up you will move your body in front of him to block his motion and simultaneously close the door. Re-cue the sit & wait and repeat the exercise.
If your dog successfully holds his wait for 5 – 10 seconds at the open door you can release him and let him go outside — that’s his reward. Don’t let the release/reward be too exciting as this could make your next attempt at wait more challenging for your dog.
Gradually, in 3 to 5 second increments, you will increase the amount of time your dog holds his wait while the door is open in front of him. You will work to getting at least a 30 second wait before you even consider trying the exercise off leash.
Wait at an outside doorway (door opens out away from the room where you are standing)
You will train this the same way as indicated above, however, note that your body will automatically be in a position to help block your dog’s forward movement, should he get up prematurely from his wait sit.
Now that your dog understands “wait” you should be able to bring in groceries or hold the door for entering guests without fear that your dog will make a mad dash for the outdoors.
Good luck 🙂
This installment in my impulse control training series involves teaching the dog to wait at the doorway — the exercise involves a sit and the dog may self-release after a short duration. As mentioned previously, it is often helpful to train an incompatible behavior in order to eliminate/reduce the occurrence of an undesirable behavior. In this instance by training the dog to wait at a doorway the dog is not then able to:
- escape from the house
- jump on approaching guests
- knock over a child or fragile adult
Wait can also be used effectively to ask your dog to hold position while you:
- walk down a flight of stairs
- open his crate door (in the house or in the car)
- anytime his movement could jeopardize his or your safety
Initial training should be conducted at an inside doorway, so there’s no chance of your dog escaping while he learns this new behavior.
Training — wait at the doorway
Unlike stay, wait simply means pause for a moment. Use it mostly at doorways, stairs, gates, in and out of the house and car. It is easy to teach and takes very little practice, but does require consistent application of the behavior when the stimulus (opening the door) is presented. Do your early training at home and gradually progress to other locations.
- Start by using an inside doorway
- Do not have any food in your hands
- Have your dog on leash. (Note: You won’t be using the leash for anything except to make sure your dog doesn’t leave the training area.)
- Walk up to the doorway with your dog at your side.
- Get him to sit.
- Verbally ask him to “wait” and give a hand-signal (I use the same hand-signal as STAY). The hand-signal I use is a flat hand, palm facing the dog, fingers parallel to the ground, presented at the dog’s eye level.
- Pivot your body in front of the dog so that you are now facing each other.
- You take one step backward (now your dog should be in one room and you in another, with the doorway between you). If your dog gets up and moves toward you as you move, just lightly walk into him, using your body as a block (do not use your leash to restrain him). Re-cue the “sit” and “wait” and take 1 step backward.
- Don’t ask him to hold the wait too long — just a second or two at first.
- Make sure your dog does not anticipate (get up before you release him). If he does you need to re-cue the behavior again.
When you first start out you may only get a 1 or 2 second “wait”. That’s fine. You are developing the building blocks of the behavior. When your dog is holding his sit you will mark the behavior (reference: https://tailsfromthetrainingcenter.wordpress.com/2012/01/06/positive-reinforcement-training-and-using-a-marker/)
release your dog (before he gets up on his own) and give him a treat or a life reward — like getting a chance to go outside.
Gradually you will work to having duration of 20 – 30 seconds on your wait. You want to have enough time to comfortably get out the door in real life.
In the next installment I’ll review how to train “wait” at an outside doorway.
Good luck 🙂
There are a number of exercises you can practice and behaviors you can train to help lower your dog’s arousal level and strengthen their abilities for self-control. The “watch” behavior is an excellent example. It is relatively easy to teach, however, watch needs to be practiced and reinforced a great deal, initially with no or low distractions, in order for it to be successful out in the world when you need it most. In this post I will outline how to teach watch, practice it, and apply it to everyday life.
Using the “watch” behavior can be very useful, especially if you are dealing an adolescent or reactive dog. When a dog learns to look at his handler (directly) on cue it means the dog is no longer looking at another object (stimulus) that might cause him to get aroused. By using an incompatible behavior, watching you, your dog cannot also be staring at something he’s prone to react to.
TEACHING THE “WATCH”
In a non-distracting environment, no other dogs or activities going on take a very yummy treat and hold it right up to your dog’s nose. Before he grabs for it raise the treat up to your nose and pause for a moment or two. As long as your dog looks toward your face mark the behavior (with a click or “yes”) and give the treat to your dog. Note: you should not move your hand until after you have marked the behavior! You can use verbal praise as you deliver the treat.
You will not be adding the word “watch” yet, because your dog doesn’t understand the behavior, so the word would not have meaning or context.
If you are wondering why you would mark the behavior of looking at your face vs. looking in your eyes it’s because some dogs are not comfortable offering direct eye contact. This is because direct eye contact can be confrontational, especially in dog-to-dog interactions. You will want to pace your training based on your dog’s confidence and comfort level with the exercise.
As your dog gets more comfortable looking directly at you, gradually extend the amount of time your dog holds your gaze before you mark the behavior i.e. count to three and then mark the behavior and give the treat. If your dog looks away before the full count to three just say “oops” and restart the behavior. Now that your dog is looking in your eyes you can add the verbal cue “watch”. To introduce the word you will say it just before you present the treat in front of your dog’s nose.
Once your dog is consistently looking at you when you raise the treat to your nose, you can make the exercise harder by using both hands. Have a treat in each hand, place both hands/treats at your dog’s nose, then raise both hands to your nose, and now separate your hands to the left and right. Your dog may look from left to right (or vice versa), the moment your dog looks in your eyes, even for a nanosecond, mark the behavior and give the treat. This will help him understand that it’s eye contact you are looking for.
Practice this for several days in a non-distracting environment and reinforce generously every time your dog looks at you when you say “watch”. Try to make it into a fun game. When your dog’s just hanging out and not paying any attention to you say “Dog’s name watch” and mark the moment he turns his head toward you and shower him with treats, praise and/or have an unexpected play session.
Now that your dog understands how rewarding it is to look at you when you say “watch” it’s time to start using it in the real world. For our example we’ll assume the dog’s issue is a desire to chase cars as they drive by. You will want to pick a training location that is close enough to periodic traffic that you will have a chance to train but not so close or with so much traffic that your dog gets over stimulated/threshold*.
Preparations for training:
• You’ve selected a training area perhaps at a local park or near an intersection in your neighborhood where you can safely be away from the traffic as you gradually refine your new skill.
• Your dog has been well exercised.
• Your dog is hungry.
• You have lots of tasty treats.
As you approach the training location with your dog keep an eye out for traffic. The moment you see a car approaching you will ask your dog to watch, do not wait until the car is near you, that will be too late. Position your body so that when your dog looks at you he is also looking AWAY from the oncoming vehicle. As your dog turns to look at you mark the behavior and give several treats. Continue feeding your dog as the car passes by. If your dog was successful, stop feeding once the car has passed you and ask your dog for another behavior like a sit or down and reward that calm behavior. If your dog was not successful it’s likely you were too close to the road and the vehicle. Next time try to be at least an additional 10 feet away, continue to add distance until your dog is able to be successful.
Continue working in this same location until your dog is giving you a quick watch at least 8 out of 10 times you ask for it, and is able to be calm throughout the training session. Once you have achieved this level of success in the initial training location you can try a new setting. If your dog regresses in the new setting don’t be discouraged. Dogs do not generalize well and your dog may just need you to take it more slowly. Add more distance between you and the traffic and continue the training as you did in your original location.
Good luck 🙂
* Threshold — The point at which a physiological or psychological effect begins to be produced. Merriam-Webster.
Also known as self-control, impulse control is a key element in training a puppy or dog to have basic manners.
Almost every dog has some issue with self-control. Your dog may jump, barge through doorways, or try to get food off the counter (or right out of your hand) — it’s natural, however, at best these behaviors can be a nuisance and at worst dangerous if they are allowed to continue.
Remember first and foremost — dogs do what works for them — and if something (a behavior) works for them it means the behavior is reinforcing and reinforced behaviors get stronger!
I was encouraged to write a blog on this subject because over the past week I have had two first-hand experiences with young dogs that lacked impulse control.
Situation number one — My dog Casey and I were just leaving the dog club with a friend and her dog when someone arrived in a car for an upcoming class. At first glance my gut instinct said, “TROUBLE”. I turned to my friend and said I’m going to get my dog into the car NOW. As I was unlocking my car door I saw the rear window go down of the car that had just pulled in (the car was still moving). The dog jumped out of the window onto the driveway! Fortunately the dog went over to my friend’s dog (the nicest little dog you’d ever want to meet) and my friend grabbed the escapee by the collar. The owner quickly parked the car and came to claim his large adolescent canine. Apparently the dog pushed the window control and then leaped out of the car.
Why did I sense trouble when I first saw the dog in the car? I saw his body language — he was very aroused.
Situation number two — It can often be hectic at the dog club when classes change over (one class exiting while another arrives). In order to help manage traffic I often hold the door for those leaving while suggesting placement for those who are arriving. As I was holding the door a Golden Retriever mix was preparing to exit. Looking at the dog’s demeanor, I asked the handler “Are you okay?” She said, “Yes, we’re fine.” Why did I ask? I saw the same expression on this dog’s face as I’d seen on the dog described above.
As the handler & dog walked across the threshold to exit the dog lunged at another dog that was approaching from the parking lot. The handler was pulled to the ground. I quickly ran to grab the dog’s leash and help the handler back to her feet. The handler was not hurt and her dog did not get away from her, but as you can imagine things could have quickly gotten worse.
It’s important to teach your dog that they have choices and that a choice of calm behavior can be VERY rewarding. In my upcoming blogs I will address teaching behaviors that help build a dog’s self-control. I will review:
- Wait at the doorway
- Leave it
- No jump
- Sit for supper
- Penalty yards
I hope you will find these helpful 🙂
We were fortunate that Casey came home on a Saturday, as it gave us lots of time to spend together as a family. However, it became extremely apparent how much of Casey’s life had involved movement and having a job to do.
Our usual routine was something like this: a morning walk (a mile or two), a play session where he’d chase a ball or practice some dance steps (for breakfast), an evening walk through the neighborhood and an evening play session involving a variety of toys & treats (aka “dinner” some nights). Now, with limited mobility there wasn’t much that Casey was interested in. I prepared a Kong stuffed with liverwurst & kibble — Casey didn’t even lick it. I tried cream cheese and peanut butter with no success. He was depressed, likely in pain, and not interested in making an effort to do anything. It was disheartening.
Finally we had a small breakthrough — I was able to get him to play a game of touch*. I sat on the floor next to him and presented my palm to him (close enough so all he had to do was reach forward) and he touched his nose to my hand. At the moment he touched my hand I marked the behavior with a click and gave him a tasty treat — chicken. It was a start and I was thrilled. He had a job. In addition to giving him something to do it helped build his interest in eating again.
This was just the beginning of how I was able to use Casey’s years of training to help us navigate the obstacles we encountered during his weeks and months of recovery.
*About touch — it is an orientation exercise that has lots of applications in dog training, I teach it in puppy class as an emergency recall and it’s used in upper-level classes to teach a dog to work at a distance and develop involvement with other objects (like ringing a bell or turning a light switch).
To teach touch put a small piece of food (lure) in the palm of one hand and then present that hand, palm forward with fingers facing down, to your dog. As the dog reaches to sniff your palm/fingers “Mark” the contact with a Yes or a Click and give a treat out of your other hand. Once your dog gets the hang of touching your palm with his nose remove the food lure from your presenting hand.
Next time — more progress and how training continues to help in recovery 🙂
We picked Casey up at Metro on Saturday morning. He was wearing one of those awful e-collars (plastic cone) and his left-hind leg was heavily bandaged all the way up to his hip. In spite of it all, Casey seemed to be doing pretty well.
I asked the discharge nurse how he’d been for his pills (I knew the answer before I asked) and was told that they managed to get them into him but they did mark his kennel with a “warning” sign. Giving Casey his meds has NEVER been easy, so I could just imagine… I was not looking forward to the next few weeks of pills and liquid medication.
Fortunately the ride home was uneventful, I held Casey in the back seat of the car. When we got home we spent a low-key day as a family in the living room. There was snow outside — so the bandage had to be covered and I had to do my best to make sure he would not slip on any ice when I took him out.
Casey didn’t have much of an appetite, even though he had not eaten in over 36-hours. He refused to eat at Metro, which was not a surprise. In preparation for his homecoming I’d roasted a chicken (a favorite dish) and finally managed to get him to eat something. He was still recovering from the anesthesia, which I think affected his stomach and digestion. He was also in pain, so pain meds were important, even if he didn’t want to take them.
Casey had to wear the e-collar to make sure he would not get to the bandage, however it looked uncomfortable. I’d borrowed a soft blow-up version from a friend. While the new one worked Casey could still get to the bandage if he really tried, so for bedtime I decided he really needed to wear the cone.
None of us slept much that night! First of all Casey was on restrictions — no steps or stairs — so he had to be carried to bed. Every time he’d get picked up he’d growl (talk about unappreciative). I’d modified his bed, removing his wicker frame, so he could just lie on the mattress. That wasn’t good enough, Casey was used to spending a little time each night on our bed before going to sleep in his own (yes, he’s VERY spoiled). But now he wasn’t allowed on the furniture (fear of jumping) so that started his cries of unhappiness. The cries continued almost all night. It was impossible to tell whether they were cries of pain, discomfort, sadness, misery or all of the above. Casey had never cried like that before. It was heart wrenching.
Somehow we made it through the night but the lack of sleep didn’t help any of us… we carried on.
Next time, how we made it through the next 12 days.